A Fan in Dhaka...

Day Four

    By Jonathan Knowles

    I am staying at the Pan Pacific Hotel in Dhaka, the same hotel as the players, and coincidentally followed them out of the main entrance this morning – although security made sure I turned the other way once outside. A couple of hours later, in the fifth over of the morning, Kagiso Rabada removed both set batsmen.

    When Litton Das fell to Keshav Maharaj three overs later - with Bangladesh still 80 runs behind - it looked as if we'd all be going home before lunch. But Mehidy Hasan Miraz and debutant Jaker Ali put together a brilliant partnership of 138, taking Bangladesh into the lead. Their partnership, along with some rain and bad light later on, has meant that we will all be back tomorrow, with the home side 81 runs ahead and three wickets standing. Victory would have been nice but a big part of me is pleased that the we’ll have a fourth day. I will almost certainly never be back. (But who knows?)

    My breakfast this morning was scrambled egg on toast, the same choice as Shaun Pollock for the first two mornings although I noticed this morning that he had made the switch to fried eggs. I asked him how he gets to the ground and he said he had his own driver, but normally catches a lift in the large convoy with players and umpires etc. I replied: "Oh, so no Metro for you, then?” to which he responded: “Hell, no!”

    The convoy must be at least 10 vehicles long, with most being police cars and army vehicles. Holding up the rear is an ambulance and the fire rescue service!?  It is all extremely well organised: just before leaving the hotel, the police car at the front puts on its sirens, which sets the traffic cops at the nearby roundabout in motion to stop all traffic from entering. Within a few seconds, the roundabout is clear and the convoy begins its 20-minute journey to the stadium.

    At the stadium during lunch break, I visited the old scoreboard and met Tanvir again from yesterday. He took me inside and introduced me to his staff of 15. The scoreboard is four storeys high with piles numbers and player names on all of them (which I was told are painted by a woman). Tanvir asked how many manual scoreboards there were in South Africa, and was surprised to learn that they are all digital. His team made me sit down and they gave me a bottle of water; one of his assistants also gave me a little notepad. We did the obligatory selfies, and I then returned to my seat.

    The water and notepad were not the only acts of generosity I experienced today. Before the gates opened, one of the gate operators gave me a chair to sit on (I was the only person at that gate that early.) The man I sat next to this morning bought me a small cup of coffee which vendors sell walking in between the seats and, later on, the student next to me (Mostakin) bought me an ice lolly. I have been so touched by people's kindness, and how everybody wants to engage with me. There is a lot of “you're our guest” and I have had a strong sense since arrival that people want to ensure that I am comfortable.

    The rain delay gave me a good opportunity to talk to a few different people and share some banter. We spoke about the South African and Bangladeshi players in this match, and then at length about the world's best cricketers. The crowd is a very knowledgeable one – with strong opinions. I've learnt that Bangladeshis are not big fans of India! And I also learnt about Sheikh Hasina, Bangladesh's former Prime Minister who is currently in hiding in India and for whom an arrest warrant has been issued.

    The rain delay was also a chance for more selfies and more Facebook ID requests. My sunglasses and replica Proteas Test cap did the rounds today too, with people wanting to wear them and have their photo taken. I also participated in three video phone calls to people's friends who were not at the ground, having to wave and say a few words!

    The crowd sat patiently through the bad light, and when play was eventually called off for the day, we made our way to the exit (pushed along by security guards blowing their whistles). Out on the pavement, I said goodbye to the new friends I had made this afternoon, and I gave Mostakin a big handshake and “thank you” for his ice lolly which he so kindly bought for me. On my way to the Metro station I was asked to do a short interview for somebody's YouTube channel; I happily obliged, of course.

    Back at the hotel, I have been typing this next to the pool. Wiaan Mulder, Ryan Rickleton and Tristan Stubbs were in earlier were subjected to a bit of good-natured sledging. I assume it was good natured. As they were drying themselves next to me one of the Bangladeshi players was shouting to them from the pool that ‘150 will be enough’.  Whether it will be or not, let's hope that the lead doesn't get near that tomorrow morning.

+ Jonathan Knowles is a South African cricket fan living in London and a serial adventurer and traveller. If you are enjoying his Tour Diary please free to buy him/us a coffee. 😊