Barbed Wire & Body Searches but...

Champions Trophy in Pakistan feels safe, welcoming and hospitable - By Jonathan Knowles

Being at the Champions Trophy has been an amazing experience so far. I can't help but notice the pride which Pakistan has in hosting its first ICC event since 1996. There are numerous billboards and placards around the cities advertising the event and people on the streets are talking about it. Step into your tuk-tuk and tell the driver you're here for the cricket... the response you get is "Champions Trophy" with a smile, followed by comments on his disappointment with Pakistan's performance...

The crowds – which didn't see any international cricket at home between 2009 and 2019 - know and love their cricket and are extremely passionate. They also couldn't be more friendly or more welcoming. When I walk into the stands, I get numerous requests to "sit with me". When I do sit down (next to the "lucky" person!), they're interested to know from where I come, what I do, how long I'm here for and who my favourite players are. A very common question has also been whether I think Pakistan is safe. Without hesitation I say "yes"; and I genuinely mean it because I haven’t experienced anything which would suggest otherwise.

Selfie requests can feel relentless, but I always say "yes" with a smile. Most people ask my name; I then ask them theirs. The selfies have, however, progressed, as a few of them are now videos! The videos are either basically a 10-15 second selfie with the phone moving around to catch different angles, or they are two-minute interviews. The latter are the worst; and once the first person has done their two-minuter, the next person wants one too.

I have been extremely touched by people's kindness. I often get asked if I'm happy and alright, and whether I want anything. People want me to go ahead of them in queues, which makes me uncomfortable, so I decline.

Food is shared with me regularly. At dinner time during the New Zealand vs Bangladesh game, the guys sitting next to me came back from behind the stands with chicken biryani and a bottle of water for me. Their response to my huge "thank you" was "It's Pakistan hospitality". (I then had the difficult task of eating it with my fingers as the locals do, as there wasn't any cutlery…).

I am also touched by the stories people tell me. Living in London, I say "England" when asked from where I come. One guy spent five minutes telling me all about his great grandfather who fought for the British during the Second World War, and who returned to Pakistan when he was done. I made sure I got a selfie of us, because I wanted to remember that special moment shared with a Pakistani stranger. Others have said how their family members live in England - Manchester, Birmingham and Bradford are the most common destinations. More tell me how they want to live in "beautiful" England.

Getting into the grounds to meet all those lovely people is an experience in itself. Security is extremely tight; there are policemen everywhere. All metro stations and roads within the immediate vicinity of the stadiums are closed. The entire area around each stadium is surrounded by temporary fences, with rolls of barbed wire lying on the ground; there is a single entrance into that area in order to get to the stadium. In Rawalpindi there were five body searches before I reached my seat; in Lahore there were six. The final body search is as you enter the gangway to your seat. Proof of identification needs to be shown when presenting your ticket (most tickets cost $4). Bags are not allowed.

Despite all the body searches, the actual process of entering is surprisingly efficient and quick. Food options inside the stadium mainly comprise biryanis, minced chicken burgers, chips, crisps and ice creams. The only drink options are Coca-Cola products. When you leave your seat to buy food though, you are subjected to another body search on your return!

As for the actual cricket watched, apart from the washed-out South Africa vs Australia match, the two other matches have been enjoyable and entertaining. Michael Bracewell's four wickets and Rachin Ravindra's 112 helped New Zealand beat Bangladesh on Monday. A Bangladeshi victory would have given Pakistan a slim hope of making the semi-finals, so the crowd was rallying behind Bangladesh.

A huge Afghan contingent was present at the Gaddafi Stadium in Lahore on Wednesday to witness Afghanistan's second consecutive victory over England in ICC events. The crowd was dancing in the area at the bottom of the stands at the fall of every English wicket, and they went wild when Afghanistan won by eight-runs. On walking out of the stadium (in my England shirt), not only did I have even more selfie requests, I also received lots of handshakes and "sorries". I personally wasn't sorry though, as Afghanistan's victory has given South Africa a better chance in the tournament…